Beirut: Archaeological Museum of the American University

Sarcophagus in the garden

What is the best archaeological museum in the world? If size matters, it’s not unreasonable to mention the Louvre and the Archaeological Museum of Istanbul. For art historical impact, go to the Vatican. The quality of the information? Maybe the museums of Berlin. Or the Archaeological Museum of the American University in Beirut.

This comparatively small museum cannot boast that it owns very famous works of art, but nevertheless, it is very interesting. Take, for instance, the display of Chalcolithic objects, which explains the differences between the Hassuna, Samara, and Halaf styles; next to it is a display that helps you understand Naqada. When you look at the display of ancient glass, you will also see a picture of a fresco from Rome’s Villa Farnesina that helps you understand how those small phials were used. This is not a museum for art lovers, but for archaeology students who have to learn how to recognize the ancient cultures.

Among the objects I liked were a nice bronze statuette of Reshef; two fish-shaped jugs from Byblus; some Phoenician inscriptions; a fine black bust of a pharaoh of the twenty-fifth dynasty; a nice dromedary (Persian period); a splendid Greek philosopher; busts from Palmyra, and a large mosaic from a Byzantine church, ‘said to be from Beirut’, which made me wonder how you could possibly forget where you discovered a mosaic of twenty-five square meters. Some objects – like milestones, inscriptions, and a sarcophagus – can be seen in the garden.

In short, this museum is almost perfect. If I have to express a wish: I would have liked explanatory signs that told where objects had been found, or indicated that this was unknown.

There is something odd about this place. Even though admission to the museum is free, and although it easy to find, we found ourselves the only visitors, except for the cleaner. This is undeserved, because this is an archaeological museum of exceptional quality.   Photography is not allowed, but you can ask for a permit.

Beirut: National Museum

Vatican VIPs

The National Museum of Beirut is one of the most interesting museums I have ever visited. The first surprise is the building itself, which is in some kind of Egyptian style. Inside, it is essentially a very big hall with lots of fine sculpture, surrounded by a gallery (on the first floor) with other types of ancient objects.

Among the highlights are a stela of Ramesses II from Tyre; the sarcophagus of king Ahirom (or Ahiram) of Byblus, with the oldest known inscription in Phoenician letters; a splendid Egyptian colossus, also from Byblus; several ‘thrones of Astarte’; a Persian-style column from Sidon; a beautifully sculpted, Hellenistic tribune from the sanctuary of Eshmun at Bustan esh-Sheikh; a fine bust of Septimius Severus; a third-century mosaic of the Seven Sages from Baalbek; some mosaics and several sarcophagi, including one with scenes from the final book of the Iliad.

In the gallery on the first floor, you will find all kinds of statuettes, weapons, and idols from Byblus; lots of jewelry; coins; a very fine Dionysus from Tyre; Byzantine carvings and some finds from the Islamic age. The last display contains some objects that were damaged during the Civil War. After all, the museum is built on what was once known as the Green Line: the frontier that divided Beirut. A badly damaged house, just northwest of the museum, is a reminder of the horrors.

It is quite a distance from the center of Beirut, so you need a taxi to go there. You need several hours to see all, and there is a nice bookshop. Across the street is a small restaurant, where we had some pizza and ayran.